Tromso, Norway - land of 24 hour sun

Tromso Photos

• Wed/Thursday, July 8-9, 2015: Our Tue Jul 7 SAS/United flight from SFO at 7:25 am would take us to OSL next morning Wed Jul 8 by 9:20 AM with stopovers in Washington DC (IAD) and Copenhagen (CPH).  Our entry stamp to Eurozone was in Copenhagen.  When they see a US passport, they scan it and stamp it without a second thought - a big benefit of carrying a US Passport. 
  - It was raining in Oslo, but there was free WiFi at the airport (these days in most airports) as well as plenty of electrical outlets to charge your phones/tablets so passing a few hours at the gate wasn't a problem.  They fed us enough on the flights, so we were all set.  On second thought, should have tried a Danish at Copenhagen!
  -  Oslo's Gardermoen airport is 50 km away from the city center - too far for a quick trip.  Besides, it was raining steadily.  It got worse before it got better by the time we left OSL at 1:40 PM.  Norwegian would take us to Tromsø (TOS) non-stop by 3:35 PM.
  - Norwegian is the discount airline that sells cheap tickets and then charges for everything including water.  Luckily, all airlines still prefer online check-in 22 hours before the flight, and allow you to select seats at that time.  In comparison, SAS  proudly declares that tea and coffee (and water) are always free within Eurozone (meals are served on international flights for free.)
  - We have nearly one day (22 hours and 50 minutes, to be exact) in Tromso, where the sun doesn't set at all from May 20 - July 22.  Jet lag notwithstanding, we can stay up and wander around the entire time if we liked.  We are hoping for clear sky - no rain for sure - during this period, especially at midnight.  Raining had stopped in Tromso by the time we reached, and we got spectacular weather the entire time.
• Tromso is located far north (217 miles into the Arctic Circle 69.6828° N, 18.9428° E), but the North Atlantic Gulf Stream creates a mild climate. It is easily reachable by a two hour flight from Oslo. (In comparison, Barrow, Alaska town, at 71.2956° N, 156.7664° W is the northernmost point of the United States - 320 miles above Arctic Circle, Point Barrow is at 71.3889° N, 156.4792° W.  North Pole is at 90 degrees North.  Each degree of latitude is 69 miles.  But who is counting!) - Tromsø boasts many superlatives, the world’s northernmost cathedral, brewery, botanical garden and university.  It is also the Northernmost largest city over 50,000 population.  In summer, Tromsø is a base for round-the-clock, 24-hour daylight activity.  Once the first snows fall, the locals slip on their skis or snowshoes, head out of town and gaze skywards for a glimpse of the northern lights.  Skiing is of course the major entertainment during winter, and to do that there is an amazing network of lit cross country ski trails in pretty much every Norwegian town.  Watching Northern Lights would be another one on my bucket list, but they are notoriously unpredictable (and only during winter.)  For us, watching the midnight sun - if the clouds parted enough - was the main attraction.  We nearly succeeded.

Tromso City Center

• On the flight to Tromso, a young woman sitting next to me gave me loads of good information and advice.  She currently worked in Trondheim, and was returning home to Tromso for holidays.  She lived about an hour away from the airport, near the Sami country.  Further to the East, towards Sweden, would be best place to see Reindeer herds - and Sami people following them.  As usual, since there were no guarantees of Reindeer sighting, we dropped the plan.  The next day during a bus trip past the airport, we saw two Reindeer wandering local streets.  Better than nothing.  
• Tromso airport is on the northwest end of the island, whereas the city center is southeast - with a mountain in the middle.  Local buses circle and crisscross the island with many stops.  Flybuss serves most airports in Norway and provide 20 minute frequency shuttle service to city centers for around 80 NOK ($1 = 8 NOK)  The massive infusion of capital for infrastructure projects within the Eurozone has helped Scandinavian countries where long bridges and tunnels have been built so the entire continent could be connected.  In Tromso, that money made it possible to cut tunnels through the mountain - with a roundabout where the tunnels cross each other.  That cuts down the time to City Center to only 15 minutes.  I'm sure it is a much bigger time saver during winter months.  We later found out that local bus No. 42 would have been just as fast, and cheaper.  Or for more than one person, taxi at 150 NOK is cheaper as well.
• After checking in at Comfort Hotel Xpress, we walked to the Transportation Center near the Harbor before it closed at 5 PM. We found out that a single ride ticket purchased on the bus in 50 NOK, but prepaid at the Transportation Center, or elsewhere, is only 35 NOK.  A 24 hour pass (Tromskortet Mini) – clock starts the first time you validate it on the bus – is only 90 NOK. We had paid 80 NOK just to come here from the airport.  Bus no. 42 would have done the same job much cheaper. With the 24 hour pass, we could (and did) take 42 bus back to the airport tomorrow.
• With the pass, we had several options - either that day or next.  Bus 34 would half circle the island clockwise up to (near) the airport.   For the Botanic Garden, take the 20 to the Planetarium, walk down the nice foot path, enjoy the Garden and take bus 42 (South) back into town.  Bus 42 then continues to Polaria Museum and then through the tunnel, past the airport to residential community of Stakkevollan via very scenic drive around the Sound.  There another bus (425) would take you to the closest Fjord we could visit.  To cross half mile long Tromso Bridge to the Arctic Cathedral take buses 20, 24, 26 and 28.  Bus 26 would take us to Cable Car beyond.  All other activities Visitor Center recommended needed day trips or longer.
• We decided to make the most use of our awake time (jet lag notwithstanding.)  First thing we had noticed was the Arctic Cathedral across the Sound. We took the first bus that came along (no. 20.)  After enjoying the view from there, we decided to walk back here to watch the midnight sun, unless there was a better spot on Tromso bridge. 
• Next, we took Bus 26 to the Cable Car station.  The Cable Car takes you up to Mount Stor­stei­nen on Fløya, 421 meters above the sea level.  The ride takes four minutes and costs 150 NOK round trip.  Not knowing how clear the skies will be at midnight, we postponed the decision until later.  Because buses stop around midnight, you most likely would need to take taxi back to the hotel, or walk (less than two miles,)
• We returned back to City Center and took a stroll around the harbor.  It was too early for dinner, but we were hungry.  We stopped by to check out 2-3 restaurants recommended by the Visitor Center and had our first sticker shock of Norway.  A shrimp salad or equivalent would cost 250 NOK and higher.  Drinks extra.  A nearby 7-11 had prepared sandwiches, hot dogs or calzone for about 50 NOK.  A hot calzone was perfect for a meal.
• Next we took the scenic Bus 34 around the south tip of the island up to the airport.  The skies were generally clear, weather nice 70 degrees, beautiful blue waters for Tromso Sound and surrounding snow peak mountains and greenery was charming.  We were however beginning to doze off during the comfortable bus ride.  We got off at the Planetarium, decided to come here the next day to visit the Botanical Garden, and took Bus 20 back to the hotel for a quick nap.
• We set the alarm for 11 PM, promised ourselves to get out of bed FOR SURE to watch midnight sun, and fell asleep.  When we woke up, there was still plenty of light outside.  For a second, we didn't know whether we slept through the night and it was early morning already.  It wasn't.
• We walked through City Center.  Plenty of people were mulling around.  Some walking towards the Tromso Bridge (1 km long), and some returning.  We walked on the bridge to the other side, looking for a good viewing spot.  At mid-span, there were a few people waiting to take pictures.  But the bridge had tall fences on both sides, so we continued across to the Arctic Cathedral.  Except for a  couple of traffic lights below, this was a perfect spot to see exactly where the sun would "set" and even see the reflection in the water.  There were far too many clouds in the sky, so we dropped the Cable Car idea.  It was however much less cloudy on the horizon, and we were expecting a miracle just where the sun was about to set.  Well, it did - almost.  We could see the sun-rays coming from behind the clouds, and reflection of the sun in the water.  You could tell that the sun was about the same angle above the horizon about an hour before setting (in the rest of the world, of course.) 

Midnight sun from Arctic Cathedral, Tromso, Norway

• About then, the midnight concert at Arctic Cathedral ended and the concertgoers were coming out.  To take them (and us) back to town, the last of the buses also arrives at the bus stop across the street.  We hopped on the bus, returned to the hotel, and had no problem falling asleep again. 
• NOTE: The city enjoys midnight sun from May 18 to July 26.  During this period, the sun is always above the horizon. Popular viewpoints include the Tromsø Bridge, the front of the Arctic Cathedral and most prominently the Upper Station of the Cable Car, but it can be seen from most points in the city area.
• Arctic Cathedral - Best place to view midnight sun, unless you want to take the cable car to the top of the hill behind. The Cathedral, with its unique shape, stands out among the surrounding residential community, and is visible from Tromso on the other side of the Sound, from the harbor and the bridge. - The dramatic design is eye catching with a glass façade adorned with a massive cross. Inside, oak pews and simple pulpit are contrasted by the multi-colored glass mosaic Return of Christ at the eastern end of the nave.
  - It boasts outstanding acoustics, and has become a favorite concert venue, with midnight performances (admission cost 150 NOK) ending exactly at midnight - to watch the midnight sun. The last bus is at 12:20 (Nos. 20, 24, 26 or 28) to bring you back to Tromsø city center.

• Next morning, I went out for my usual morning walk and to re-orient myself to the city layout, bus stops, and places open for breakfast.  Our hotel recommended De 4 Roser, just across the street, for breakfast and gave us a 20% off coupon.  Five different options for breakfast including English, American, etc.  Waitress spoke good English and we were able to order just fine.  With Juice and Coffee included, eggs with choice of toast, it wasn't a bad deal.  No refills.  Even with 20% off, paying 272 NOK for breakfast for two was pricey.  Later, we found out that even breakfast special at McDonald's in Bergen was advertised for 115 NOK, and 7-11 Hot Dog special was 29 NOK.  Welcome to Norway!
• We hopped on Bus 42 going towards the airport.  Drive beyond the airport is once again around the Sound with views of surrounding mountains.  Lush greenery with residential community nestled in between was such a peaceful sight.  The bus served locals going to school and work, and was nearly half full most of the time.  We reached the last stop - Stakkevollan.  Our driver spoke very little English, but understood that we wanted to take the 425 bus to the nearby Fjord.  We found out that the first 425 bus wasn't until 1 1/2 hours later.  We would be rushing back to return to the airport on time.  So we returned on the same 42 bus back.  There would be another opportunity to see a Fjord - in fact, the longest, 120 mile Sognefjord from Bergen the next day. 
• By now, we were experts with the bus routes.  We got off near the airport, and took Bus 20 to Botanical Garden.
  
  - Arctic-Alpine Botanic Garden (Botaniske Hage), This outdoor botanical garden has entrance near the Northern Lights Planetarium - a Geology Walk explains the rock formations common within the Arctic Circle.
  - From the Geology Walk, the path meanders down to the botanical gardens spread over 1.56 hectares swathed in thousands of plants from across the world.  The majority of species displayed here are Arctic or alpine species that flourish in the cold, snowy winters and long summer growing season, which is warmed gently by the effects of the Gulf Stream.
  - A lot of students were seen working and maintaining the garden, while learning about them.  Definitely worth visiting for an hour or two.  It is open 24 hours during summer and admission is free.  The site is also accessible via a 40-minute walk from the city center (or Bus no. 34.)  The garden is 10 minutes from the cruise harbor.
• We took the bus back to the hotel, picked up our bags and returned to catch Bus 42 back to the airport.  We had already picked up the boarding passes yesterday before leaving the airport. 
• Our flight was on the largest prop plane used by Wideroe (commuter service by SAS) and was able to accommodate our rather large backpacks as carry-on,  This two hour non-stop flight flew over the islands and fjords all the way to Bergen.  We had window seats on left, facing the land, and were able to watch that beautiful landscape, which was visible through patches of clouds most of the way.  A cruise would have taken several days!