- Thursday, July 9, 2015: Having checked off the first item ("midnight sun") from our bucket list on the very first day in Norway, we were off to Bergen for the next three days with no firm plans. We left Tromso (TOS) at 2:25 PM on a Wideroe - commuter airline of SAS - prop plane for a 2 1/2 hour ride along Norway's Atlantic coastline 1000+ miles south to Bergen, enjoying wonderful views of fjords, islands, snow-capped mountains and surrounding greenery through partly cloudy skies. We reached Bergen (BGO) airport at 4:50 PM, and city center -12 miles away- about an hour later. - Flybuss Airport Shuttle is the most convenient transport during summer months in Norway's most major cities (only during summer tourist season, like most other activities.) Buses run every 15-20 minutes apart and take 45-50 minutes to reach the other end. For more than one person, taxi may be comparable or cheaper. Sometimes, local buses are also available and can be even cheaper though slower.
- In general, it is cheaper to purchase tickets at the vending kiosk (or online) than on the bus - though sometimes the difference is minimal like 10 NOK. Some bus drivers can't accept credit cards, so you need cash. Round trip tickets are cheaper than two single tickets. In Bergen, 90 NOK one way vs 160 NOK round trip. Just show the receipt when you board the bus.
- Our stop was Fish Market, right in the heart of city center and near all tourist attractions - not to mention shops and restaurants. When facing the harbor and fish market, you see Bryggen and Fort just beyond to the right. To the left was the "pedestrian only" plaza - as is common in many European cities. Much to their surprise, local merchants find that MORE, not LESS, customers visit their stores when there are no cars around. - Our accommodations were only a couple of blocks away. But first, we visited the Tourist Information center (a big white "I" in a green square.) above the fish market. This Tourist Information center is open long hours, and not only gives maps and information, they also book tickets for you on the spot. Because it rains 300 days a year in Bergen, it was important to plan activities around the weather. Tomorrow (Friday) was going to be clear, so we better go visit a fjord.- Large TV and other displays and brochures tell you all about nearby attractions while you wait for your number to be called. The wait could be long even though they have plenty of counters
- one counter is primarily for money exchange (you can get a better exchange rate at an ATM), and one for tours, but all of them can answer your questions. (As you enter, there is an electronic machine to take a number. TIP: Pick the one that has the least wait for faster service.)
- I had looked at NIN (Norway in a Nutshell) earlier - it offers a variety of plans of different starting points and different lengths. I knew that at most, we could do a one day plan. On TripAdvisor and RickSteves, I had read about people trying to do NIN on their own and save some money, but wasn't quite sure how it worked. NIN is NOT a guided tour, though occasionally some announcements are made about points of interest. Otherwise, it is just a prepaid collection of connecting public transportation modes - you won't miss a connection if you followed the crowds. Meals are on your own.- For one day plan, we could do "Sognefjord in a nutshell" - a five hour travel through much of the Sognefjord to Flam, and return via Flam train to Myrdal and back to Bergen. This would however miss the famous Naeroyfjord arm.
- Alternatively, we could do the standard NIN, the most popular route where we first take train from Bergen to Voss (1 hour), then bus to Gudvangen at Naeroyfjord (1 hour), followed by a 2 hour Fjord cruise through the Naeroyfjord arm to Sognefjord to Flåm, then Flåm Railway to Myrdal (1 hour,) and another train back to Bergen via Voss (2 hours.) Or, the whole trip could be reversed. Ticket for this 12 hour, 250 mile adventure by bus, boat and trains is 1220 NOK ($150.)
- Sognefjord is the longest fjord in Norway (127 miles), and the longest ice-free one in the world. One of its arms, Naeroyfjord, has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is a dramatic, narrow fjord 11 miles long, only 800 feet wide and 35 feet deep in some parts, with steep mountain sides and tiny farms clinging to them. And of course, plenty of waterfalls in summer months. At the deepest point, Sognefjord is over 4000 feet deep, with mountains rising 4000 feet on the sides. Very dramatic views all around.
- We needed some time to think so we decided to check in to our apartment first and come back. We returned to the Information Center only to find out that NIN may be sold out for the next day - how could that happen on public transport? Any case, we got the tickets we wanted, in the direction we preferred, and with additional two hours in Flam to walk around. This was late at night when you couldn't purchase it online, and other tourist offices were closed. We were the last ones to get tickets for that day. We got lucky with the weather too - the next day turned out to be a great sunny day.
- AirBnB - This was my first experience with AirBnB - that too internationally, and for 3 days in one shot. The one bedroom apartment was very conveniently located - walking distance to everywhere we wanted to go. Finding it wasn't difficult either, but the owner did not live in Bergen. She had asked one of her friends to bring us the keys - we didn't know that. As Plan B, the owner had asked us to pick up keys from the hair dresser shop downstairs if they were open - so we did. Once inside the apartment, we had WiFi / internet connection and we were able to connect with the owner - and find out what's where. Little things that we know exactly where they are and how they work in our own homes, are not so obvious to others - especially in another country. How does the shower turn off completely, where are the bed sheets, how does the washer/dryer work, where is the microwave, where is the switch for the heater (even in summer?), how does the TV work? - it felt silly asking those questions.
Other than fjords and scenery (and beautiful blondes - men and women of course), Norway is known for being notoriously expensive - and that is an understatement at times. This could be said about all Scandinavian countries in general, but Norway seems to be on top. You know this when you see McDonald's advertising their standard breakfast special for 110 NOK, and a hoagie sandwich at 7-11 costs 50 NOK. Restaurant lunches could be 150-200 NOK and dinner 300+. A single bus ride is 50 NOK.
Although Norway boasts high per capita income for its 5 million citizens, how do they manage? By NOT eating out, I was told. One ex-pat US citizen now settled in Oslo explained that on most days, we eat at home - meat and potatoes. And on special occasions we go out for a Pizza or McDonald's.
Any case, we had seen Coop supermarkets in Tromso. In Bergen, Rema 1000 are everywhere - one was next to the Information Center. We needed something for dinner that night, and for all day next day. Then one day we were going to splurge. A 40 NOK frozen pizza (our apartment had oven), 10 NOK Danish/Donuts, a bag of 4 Ciabatta rolls for 10 NOK, half a pound of Swiss Cheese and Ham for 30 NOK each, and 1.5 liter juice for 20 NOK - felt like such an inexpensive deal compared to the prices noted above.
- Friday, July 10, 2015: Friday was NIN all day.
- Saturday, July 11, 2015: Bergen, the self-proclaimed “Gateway to the Fjords,” is the second largest city in Norway after Oslo, and is itself on Bergenfjord. For sightseeing, you'd want to head south to Hardangerfjord, or north to the Flåmsdal valley, where the inspiring Flåmsbana mountain railway trundles down to the Aurlandsfjord, a small arm of the mighty Sognefjord. - Slightly further North than Oslo, Bergen (60.3894° N, 5.3300° E) is an ancient Viking port steeped in medieval history. The most fascinating sites here are the 12th-century Fantoft Stave Church with its rooftop dragons; Haakon's Hall, where the Norwegian kings were crowned; and Troldhaugen, the lakeside home of composer Edvard Grieg. Then there were so many other things you could do/see just by walking around this easily walkable city.
- Today, we decided to start early, again, because the forecast was for rain in the afternoon. During my morning walk, I had explored the surrounding area - like lake, car-free shopping area, wooden houses, and so on to visit later in the day. We began with a hike to the top of Mount Floyen, just one block away from our apartment. There are numerous ways to get there, including driving up on a paved road or a funicular. Homes dot the entire slope of the mountain, and are connected with smaller roads as well as stairs in every direction. As long as you keep climbing up, you will eventually get to the top. Going on a trail is the best once you get to it. The hike is long, though not difficult. It is popular with locals walking their dogs, as well as with tourists. Those who are short on time or don't like to climb can take Funicular - one way or both ways. A large viewing platform adjacent to the Funicular station at the top gives you a nice view to the South and West, all the way to the ocean several miles away.
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| Bergen City center, Wharf and beyond. |
- Coming down a different way, passing by a small lake with picnic areas all around, we ended up at the lower station of the Funicular. Tour buses were just arriving, and tourists were marching towards the Funicular. Soon, we were back at the the pier. Around the corner was the famous Bryggen Hanseatic Wharf, with wooden houses behind, churches, a fort and a museum beyond. On the other side of the museum is where the cruise ships anchor - very convenient way to sightsee Bergen. (We saw Costa Pacifica docked there. We will get on it in Kiel 3 days later.)
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| Bryggen - wooden houses behind |
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| Fort |
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| Church inside the fort |
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| Another Church |
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| Logos of past empires that ruled Bergen |
- At the Information Center, we were told that the only place in Bergen that serves whale steaks is Bryggeloftet & Stuene, near Bryggen - on our way back to the apartment. It was just before noon - not quite lunch time, so restaurants were nearly empty. Norway is known for NOT being Vegetarian friendly. Common diet is meat and fish (and potatoes.) Reindeer fillet and Whale steak would be worth trying once, no matter what the price. So we went in. Had a window facing the wharf, watching people go by. Although normally served as dinner, it was available anytime - so we ordered. Whale was described as a "different" taste, whereas Reindeer as "wild." The description fit fairly well. Another box checked of our list. Price tag - Only 700 NOK.
- It looked like rain so we returned to our room for a while. Later in the evening, we walked around the lake, the university, the car-free shopping district on the South side of the harbor.
- Tomorrow will be travel day - to Stavanger.
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| Mount Floyen |
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